Experiencing The Big Earthquake In Ecuador

I am actually writing this post 4 months after the actual earthquake which happened on 16 April 2016 but I remember it so vividly.  We were staying at the beautiful Cabanas San Isidro.  It was around 7pm and we had just sat down to dinner.  We had been joined by the very friendly manager, Alejandro and were talking about birds.  The cook had just brought our the first course, the soup and placed it in front of us.  Spoons in hand we were about to dig in when we felt the earth move.  The soup was sloshing around in the bowl and I was wondering what the hell was going on.  Alejandro said, “Earthquake”.  He was outwardly calm but I could tell he was nervous.  The kitchen staff were also putting on a brave face but they were also very nervous.  We all desperately wanted to know what was happening, where the earthquake was centered, how bad it was and if we were in danger but there was no wifi, tv or cell phone signal.

I was extremely nervous as we were on top of a mountain, it had been raining and I was afraid of mudslides.  Finally Alejandro got through to someone and told us the earthquake was in a small town (Pedernales) near the coast which I was not familiar with.  He no longer seemed nervous so I also relaxed a bit and we continued with dinner.  The staff had also relaxed and no longer seemed nervous.  We finished or dinner with no further news, the tv still wasn’t working.  After dinner, one of the staff walked us back to the cabin and stopped along the way to show us the owl.  It took me a while to get to sleep that night as I was afraid of aftershocks.

The next morning, the guide showed up early as agreed to take us birding and everything seemed normal so I kind of “forgot” there had been an earthquake.  The rest of the day was exactly as planned – birding, breakfast, ride to bus stop, bus to Guango Lodge, see hummingbirds, bus to Quito Airport and check in for flight.  The roads were all normal, no traffic jams and most flights were running on schedule.  We used Priority Pass to enter the lounge and get access to wifi.  Only then did I learn what a devastating earthquake it had been!  I Googled “Ecuador earthquake” and read in stunned disbelief of the horror and devastation it had wreaked upon the small towns near the epicenter.  It was a 7.8 magnitude on the Richter scale and 661 people were killed and 27,732 people injured.  Here are some links to details and news coverage of the earthquake.

Wikipedia Article

CNN #1

CNN #2

This map shows where we were (purple dot), and the epicenter of the earthquake is highlighted.  I also showed the closest we had been to the epicenter when we were in Mindo.  I am not sure how bad it was there but if the earthquake had been a week earlier, we could have been caught a lot worse than we were.

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Sitting there in the Quito airport lounge, I silently said some prayers for the people who had been killed, injured or lost their homes in the earthquake.  Guayaquil had felt it very badly and even had a bridge collapse.  We didn’t have long before the flight left so it took me awhile to get all the details.  I wouldn’t have wifi again until the hotel in Santa Marta, Colombia.

It’s a scary thing to think that we could get caught up in a natural disaster like an earthquake or hurricane while traveling.  At least with hurricanes you can avoid the season but earthquakes are completely unpredictable.  You are  more vulnerable when you are traveling too.  You don’t know the area, where to go for help and other people around will have their own families to worry about.  Since I got lucky this time, I can’t speak from experience what to do if you are caught in an earthquake while traveling but I did find a couple articles with some good advice.  If you will be traveling to a country that has a history of earthquakes, it’s a good idea to print them or save a copy to your hard drive as you may not have internet after an earthquake strikes.

BBC Travel

Peter Greenberg

The other thing I noticed is when I finally did get online, Facebook detected that I had logged in from a disaster area and had a button I could click to let friends and family know we were ok.

Lodge Review: Cabanas San Isidro

Cabanas San Isidro is a beautiful eco-lodge set high in a cloud forest only 2 hours from the Quito Airport.  You can easily get there by bus from either Quito, Coca or Wildsumaco Lodge.  When booking, we were told to get off the bus in Cosanga, walk to a particular small roadside restaurant and call them and they would come and get us.  It was pouring rain as you can see!

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They assigned us to a beautiful cabin with a spectacular view over the cloud forest.  DSCN2292

I didn’t want to step on the macaw!DSCN2294

The cabin was gorgeous, spotlessly clean and very attractively furnished.DSCN2293 DSCN2295 DSCN2296 DSCN2298

And the view to die for……………..well bird for!  The rain wasn’t letting up so we hung out on the balcony looking for birds.  DSCN2297

It rained most of the afternoon but it finally did let up for awhile.  DSCN2299 DSCN2300

I was in “give up” mode and not really paying attention when I heard parrot squawks.  I barely had time to reach for my camera (which I had put down as it was heavy) but the two White-capped Parrots disappeared into the trees on the left.  I think they perched as I could still hear them but they must have taken off shortly afterwards.  I was hoping they would come back, or more would fly by but they didn’t.  DSCN2301 DSCN2302

The rain had let up enough to walk down to the main building and it was getting close to dinner time so we walked down.DSCN2303

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Map of the trails which we had planned on walking but not in the rain!DSCN2410 DSCN2409

The dining room is beautiful with some nice bird artwork on the walls.  They also have a nice selection of bird books.  Some people have posted on Trip Advisor that wifi is available but it wasn’t working they day we were there.  (This would later become very important).DSCN2317 DSCN2318 DSCN2319

We were there in time to see a few straggling hummingbirds before they turned in fo rthe night.  Then we sat down for dinner.  Alejandro, the very friendly manager joined us.DSCN2320

At this point, I should mention that the day we were there was 16 April, the day of the big earthquake.  I did a separate post about that as this post is meant to review the property.  The food was excellent!DSCN2321 DSCN2322

In spite of the outside influences (rain, earthquake) we really loved Cabanas San Isidro and wish we could have stayed longer.  The grounds are amazing and there are lots of birds (will do a separate post for birds), and the local guide is excellent!  He even found the rare San Isidro Owl for us!  The staff were “grace under pressure” while the earthquake was happening.  We felt it shake the buildings and everyone was nervous but not panicky and Alejandro got information as quickly as he could when he could get a signal.  You can book directly with the lodge.  The lodge gets rave reviews on Trip Advisor too!  We would definitely stay here again if we ever get back to Ecuador!

Bus Travel Through Eastern Ecuador

When I was planning this trip, the one thing that worried me was that it was really hard to find information on bus transport along the road between Coca & Quito that would pass by Wildsumaco, Cosanga (Cabanas San Isidro) and Guango Lodge.  It turned out to be as easy as standing on the roadside (or sitting at a bus stop) and hailing the next bus to pass which never took longer than 20 minutes (that could have just been good luck).  None of them were full, in fact they were mostly empty enough that we could each claim a bank of 2 seats and stretch out.  The buses were also very cheap, between $3-8 for each leg.  In the next few photos you can see what the buses were like and see some of the scenery along the way.  It was cool to see signs promoting conservation!

WILDSUMACO TO COSANGA

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Since our bus was headed to Tena, we had to jump out at the crossroads and hail a Quito bound bus-which pulled up just as we were crossing the street!DSCN2279 DSCN2281 DSCN2280 DSCN2282 DSCN2284 DSCN2285 DSCN2286

It was pouring rain as we pulled over by the Cosanga bus stop.  We had been told to go to a small restaurant and call the lodge when we arrived, so braved the rain to walk along the road back towards the town to find the restaurant.DSCN2287 DSCN2288

COSANGA TO GUANGO LODGE

After leaving the lodge, they dropped us at the same bus stop and we hailed a bus after a few minutes.  This trip took place the day after the earthquake and since we had no internet, we were yet unaware of how much damage was done elsewhere in Ecuador.  As you can see, these roads were perfectly fine, you would never know the earthquake had been felt in the region.DSCN2445 DSCN2446

This bus was featuring a Bollywood film of all things!DSCN2447 DSCN2449

The weather was still rainy and glum as we took the hour long ride to Guango Lodge.  Coming from the Amazon, the lodge is on the right side so keep an eye out if the driver doesn’t seem familiar with it.DSCN2451 DSCN2452 DSCN2453 DSCN2454 DSCN2455

GUANGO LODGE TO QUITO AIRPORT

Since Guango Lodge is best known for hummingbirds, we only stayed there for a couple hours before heading back out to the main road to get another bus.  There was no shelter from the rain this time and we waited around 20 minutes before we were finally rescued by a bus.

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We gradually came out of the mountains and started descending into Quito.  The bus would go all the way into the city bus terminal but for people headed to the airport, you need to jump out at Pifo and take a taxi.  Tell the bus driver you are going to El Aeropuerto and you probably won’t be the only one going there.

I don’t remember exactly how much the taxi was, it was around $10-ish and we probably got ripped off but you are pretty much a captive audience and they know you probably have a flight to catch.  It’s less than 10 minutes from Pifo to the airport – easy!  The best thing is that you don’t need to schedule a day in Quito to make a flight the next morning.  In fact it’s probably easier to get to the airport from Guango or Cabanas San Isidro since there is only one road and no traffic!  So why not spend your last night in Ecuador in a beautiful eco-lodge?DSCN2593 DSCN2595 DSCN2596

Silver-beaked Tanager (Ramphocelus carbo)

The Silver-beaked Tanager (Ramphocelus carbo) is a medium-sized bird with attractive dark crimson & black colouring.  When a male bird faces forward, it kind of looks like he is doing a “milk moustache” commercial!

This one was seen at Wildsumaco Lodge area.

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And this pair was seen at Asa Wright’s in Trinidad and shows the difference between male (above) & female.

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This tanager is a resident breeder in South America from eastern Colombia and Venezuela south to Paraguay and central Brazil, and on Trinidad where they are commonly seen at Asa Wright’s.

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LEARN MORE ABOUT SILVER-BEAKED TANAGERS

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In both these videos you can see the subtle beauty of this small bird.

 

Military Macaw (Ara militaris)

The Military Macaw (Ara militaris)  gets its name from its predominantly green plumage resembling a military parade uniform.  They are rare enough that if one is spotted, every birder will stand up and pay attention!  We were really lucky to see 4 flying by at Wildsumaco but my photos came out blurry so I have included the Wikipedia shots.

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They have quite a large range in in Mexico, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia.  Even within their range, this is not an easy bird to find so consider yourself very lucky if you do!  Many people (like me) see them at Wildsumaco in Ecuador and Minca in Colombia.

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LEARN MORE ABOUT MILITARY MACAWS

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American Bird Conservancy

VIDEOS

This is a captive bird included here because of the excellent video quality.

This is a small flock in eastern Ecuador, not sure where but near a noisy river!

 

Morning Birding Around Wildsumaco Lodge

When booking with Wildsumaco, I had also booked a morning of birding with their local guide and requested packed breakfast so we could make an early start.  As of April 2016 the guide fee was  full day for $60 and  half day for $40. Half day schedule is from 06h00 AM to 12h00 (noon), and from 13h00 pm to 18h00 pm.  He knows the bird names in English but speaks Spanish only.  I think his name was Jonas but I am not sure on that.  He brought a friend along, not sure if it was for training or just for fun but we were only charged one guide fee so it was cool.

We drove down the road from the lodge and ended up at this small shack overlooking the valley.  I struggled to get decent photos, very few birds were close enough to focus on.  Some of the parrots zoomed by too quickly and I missed them:  Scaly-napped Parrot and Red-billed Parrots were overhead fly-bys.  We heard Barred Parakeets in the trees but they stayed well-concealed.  On the brighter side, I finally got some perching Maroon-tailed Parakeets and Chestnut-fronted Macaws!DSCN2168 DSCN2171

The scenery was beautiful and was constantly busy with birds going back and forth.DSCN2169 DSCN2170

We ended up with a pretty impressive bird list though I didn’t get photos of them all.

Crested Oropendola

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Orange-bellied Euphonia

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Blue-grey Tanager

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Silver-beaked Tanager DSCN2190a DSCN2196

Magpie Tanager

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White-lined Tanager

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Ruddy Pigeon

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Yellow-rumped Cacique

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Russet-backed Oropendola

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Black-billed Thrush

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Maroon-tailed Parakeet

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Lineated Woodpecker

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Channel-billed Toucan

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Black-mantled Tamarin DSCN2234 DSCN2233 DSCN2221a

Chestnut-fronted Macaw

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We stayed there for a couple hours as I was desperate to see Military Macaws but they never showed up.  So we stopped at a trail leading to some hummingbird feeders and watched them for a while, then went back to the lodge.  I grabbed some coffee and sat down to do the bird checklist (supplied by the lodge).  The Singaporean group had just come back with their guide.  Suddenly I heard a shout “MILITARY”!  I leaped up with my camera and we all rushed to the edge of the verandah just in time to see this.

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4 Military Macaws flying past the outlook!  I was snapping away, the Singaporeans didn’t even try.  The shots above were the best I could get but at least they were better than nothing!

Wire-crested Thorntail (Discosura popelairii)

The Wire-crested Thorntail (Discosura popelairii) is a hummingbird and is one of the smallest birds on Earth.  They are one of the most interesting looking hummingbirds with that thin wiry crest, white band around the rump and long thin tail.

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They have a small range in the eastern Andes of Colombia, Ecuador and PeruWildsumaco is probably the easiest place to see them around the hummingbird feeders.

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LEARN MORE ABOUT WIRE-CRESTED THORNTAILS

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See how fast they are?

 

Wants to look his best.

Sitting pretty

 

 

Wildsumaco’s Hummingbird Feeders

Rain or shine (and you’ll get plenty of both) Wildsumaco’s hummingbird feeders are extremely busy all day with some amazingly brilliant hummingbirds darting around daring you to take a photo while they are in motion.

My eBird list of hummingbirds

I never would have been able to identify all these but after sitting down with our guide, we scored 15 species of hummingbirds!  I didn’t get photos of them all as I was confused about which ones I already photographed but I tried!

Fork-tailed Woodnymph

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Brown Violetear

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Gould’s Jewelfront

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Booted Racket-tail

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Booted Racket-tail  (not sure who the “ghost” is)!

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Wire-crested Thorntails

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A group of Singaporean birders showed up with some very impressive camera gear!  It was hilarious when we were all in a row focussed on the poor little hummingbirds who must have thought they were in a war zone, that’s what it sounded like with all those bursts!DSCN2156 DSCN2154 DSCN2158

It’s cool to see different species sharing the feeders!DSCN2160

Brown Violetear

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More hummingbird feeders down the road from the lodge.DSCN2270 DSCN2272

Many-spotted Hummingbird

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Black-throated Brilliant

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Napo Sabrewing

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Golden-tailed Sapphire

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Golden-tailed Sapphire

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Golden-tailed Sapphire

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Golden-tailed Sapphire

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Booted Racket-tail

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Fork-tailed Woodnymph

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Lodge Review: Wildsumaco Lodge, Ecuador

Although most people fly in and out of Coca when they visit the Ecuadorian Amazon, I strongly urge you to plan at least one way by bus so you can visit some beautiful and birdy eco-lodges such as Wildsumaco.  Ask the bus driver to let you out at the road to Pacto Sumaco and make sure you have called the lodge to let them know which bus you are on so they can send someone to meet you.  There is a good map on their website so you can visualize it.  We didn’t have a local phone but a friendly bus passenger kindly phoned on our behalf.

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The road is fine and you don’t need a 4×4 if you have a rental car.DSCN2114 DSCN2115 DSCN2116

We were given a nice room near the hummingbird feeders. DSCN2117 DSCN2118 DSCN2119 DSCN2120 DSCN2121

The verandah on the main building overlooks a valley so you have a good chance at fly-bys, with Military Macaws being the most desired species.DSCN2127 DSCN2124 DSCN2125

A view of the rooms from the verandah.DSCN2146

This is where you kick back and relax with a drink while waiting for birds or hiding from the rain.DSCN2126

It started raining pretty heavily around 4pm so we did a lot of hiding with our cameras!DSCN2155

Even during meals, you still have a great view!DSCN2153

The bar and a small gift shop.  Cash only, no credit cards accepted which put a damper on my shopping.  There are lots of cozy chairs to relax in after birding.DSCN2149 DSCN2147 DSCN2148 DSCN2150 DSCN2151 DSCN2152 IMG_4472

The food was excellent, just like home-made!  Meals are served with delicious fruit juices and very yummy desserts!

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An enticing view of the hummingbird feeders…………more details in the next post!DSCN2128 DSCN2129

We LOVED Wildsumaco and are happy to recommend it especially for birders.  Although we could only stay one night, we would have liked at least one more night.  The rates are around $340 for 2 people including 3 meals a day and use of all their trails.  The lodge is actually the birding destination.  You have the hummingbird feeders, verandah & outlook and more birding up and down the road which leads from the lodge to the main road.  This lodge doesn’t participate in online travel agencies but you can book direct via their website.  It’s a good idea to hire their guide for at least one morning as they know the best places to see the local birds.  I told them that my priority was parrots, especially Military Macaws and they took us to the best places and we did see a lot of parrots!

Violaceous Jay (Cyanocorax violaceus)

The Violaceous Jay (Cyanocorax violaceus) is a species of bird in the family Corvidae, the crows and their allies.

DSCN2070a DSCN2071Since my blurry photo doesn’t do justice to this beautiful bird, here’s the wikipedia shot for reference.

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They have quite a large range in in Brazil, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and Venezuela. I saw this one at the Anangu Village near Napo Wildlife Center.

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LEARN MORE ABOUT VIOLACEOUS JAYS

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This one looks nervous.

This one’s just hungry!