Getting From Buenaventura To Guayaquil

This is a very easy trip to do on public transport.  After lunch at the Umbrellabird Lodge, we had the guide drop us at the main road between Pinas and Machala.  We only had to wait about 15 minutes until a bus passed heading to Machala.

It was pretty cheap, around $5 for the two of us and the bus wasn’t full so we could spread out.

DSCN0792

The scenery wasn’t that exciting, lots of banana plantations.DSCN0793

Ecuadorian buses are pretty comfortable but for some reason they keep the bathrooms locked.  They wouldn’t let me use it even after asking the driver but they did pull into a petrol station and let me off to use that bathroom.  I tried to get the wifi working but couldn’t find the signal and no one on the bus seemed to know how to use it.DSCN0794 DSCN0795

This is the bus from Machala to Guayaquil.  It took around 3 hours.  Coming from Pinas, you don’t have to go all the way into Machala.  There is a turn off to Guayaquil and about half the bus got off and switched buses here, including us.  This bus was full but still no wifi or toilet usage.DSCN0797

Here we are entering Guayaquil just before sunset.  The whole trip was around 5 hours, we left just after lunch so 12:30ish and got to Guayauil by 5:30pm-ish.  IIRC it was $16 for us both.DSCN0801 DSCN0802 DSCN0803

There are plenty of taxis at the Guayaquil bus terminal and you should only use official taxis for your safety.  It cost about $5 to go to the hotel which was downtown near the Malecon.DSCN0804 DSCN0805 DSCN0806 DSCN0807

If you are in Guayaquil wanting to go to Buenaventura, simply do the whole thing in reverse.  Get a bus to Machala and tell them you want to transfer to Pinas so they drop you at that little transit office at the turn off.DSCN0808

I have no idea what this big statue is but it was pretty cool looking!

Don’t Get Too Excited About The Etihad 25% Bonus

At least not if you are Australian!  Etihad is running one of it’s 25% bonus points when you transfer your partner points to Etihad Guest Miles.  Unfortunately, the main partners we would be using are specifically excluded – Amex Membership Rewards & Flybuys.

 

  • The offer is valid for all Points to Miles conversions made between 1 July and 31 July both days inclusive.

  • Participating points conversion partners: Accor Hotels, ADCB, Radisson Blu, Citibank, Emirates Islamic Bank, Heathrow Rewards, Hilton Honors, Hyatt, IHG, Joyalukkas, Marriott Rewards, NBAD, Shangri-La.

  • Non participating points conversion partners: HSBC, Etisalat Rewards, American Express Membership Rewards (All regions), Starwood StarPoints and Flybuys Rewards.

Full T&Cs here.  This is a good deal if you have Citi Thank You points but only if you plan to use the miles before they expire.

 

Long-wattled Umbrellabird (Cephalopterus penduliger)

The Long-wattled Umbrellabird (Cephalopterus penduliger) is a passerine bird belonging to the family Cotingidae, endemic to the western slopes of Chocó in Colombia and Ecuador. The male is about 51 cm (20 in) long and is a black bird with a large casque-shaped crest on the head and a long, feather-covered wattle on the breast. The loud call is only heard in the breeding season. The female is considerably smaller, with a smaller crest and wattle.

DSCN0771

DSCN0758

They have a limited range in Ecuador and Colombia.  Probably the easiest place to see them is the Umbrellabird Lodge at Jocotoco’s Buenaventura Reserve which has a lek a short walk from the lodge.

lwumap

LEARN MORE ABOUT LONG-WATTLED UMBRELLABIRDS

Wikipedia

Birdlife

American Bird Conservancy

VIDEOS

This could be the same bird we saw only he’s a lot more active, dancing around and fluffing up his wattle.  It was filmed in February and we were there in April.

Another clip which could be the same bird or a different one.  He’s sexy and he knows it!

 

 

Birding The Grounds Of The Umbrellabird Lodge, Southern Ecuador

Although the main draw to this area of Ecuador is the El Oro Parakeet, don’t forget that the grounds of the Umbrellabird Lodge are also very birdy and many wonderful species can be seen just from the deck and on a short but steep walk to the lek of the Long-wattled Umbrellabird.

Depending on the time of year, you may want to get up early to see the Umbrellabirds at the lek or wait a bit and see them in the trees.  The trail isn’t far from the lodge but the birds are difficult to find in the trees as they blend in and are quiet so best to go with a guide unless you have very keen eyesight.

DSCN0776 DSCN0775 DSCN0774 DSCN0773 DSCN0769 DSCN0762 DSCN0760 DSCN0757 IMG_2423a

Chestnut-Mandibled Toucan IMG_2438 IMG_2440

CoatimundiDSCN0780

Brown Violetear Hummingbird IMG_2451a IMG_2455a IMG_2297

From the balcony, we saw several flocks of Bronze-winged Parrots and Red-masked Parakeets fly past.IMG_2300 IMG_2301a IMG_2303a IMG_2311 IMG_2311a IMG_2330a IMG_2347a IMG_2351

The hummingbird feeders are constantly busy with many beautiful species!  The guide gave me the list of the ones we saw.  Brown Violetear, White-necked Jacobin, Andean Emerald, Green-crowned Brilliant, Violet-bellied Hummingbird, Green Thorntail, Bananaquit, Blue & Grey TanagerIMG_2308 IMG_2355 IMG_2373 IMG_2343a IMG_2346a IMG_2379 IMG_2389a IMG_2397 IMG_2406a

El Oro Parakeet (Pyrrhura orcesi)

The El Oro Parakeet, Conure D’Orcès, cotorra de El Oro, or perico de El Oro (Pyrrhura orcesi) is a species of parrot in the Psittacidae family, endemic to Ecuador. It is a relatively newly identified species, having been discovered in 1980.

DSCN0677 IMG_2251a IMG_2184a IMG_2221a IMG_2193a

They are highly endangered and only found in the Buenaventura Reserve where I took these photos.  I have circled the rough area near Pinas in southern Ecuador for travel planning but you MUST visit them with a guide from the Umbrellabird Lodge as I posted before for the protection of the birds.

Buenaventura

LEARN MORE ABOUT EL ORO PARAKEETS

Wikipedia

World Parrot Trust

Birdlife

American Bird Conservancy

Neotropical Birds

VIDEO

There aren’t many videos of this beautiful rare parakeet but I did find one.

 

 

Breakfast When Birding

Many hotels and eco-lodges include breakfast in the room rates.  In fact, the more remote lodges that don’t have access to a village or someplace where people can go for meals will have all-inclusive packages built around the optimal birding times.  Breakfast will either be served REAL early, like 5am before you go birding, taken with you as a boxed breakfast of sandwiches, fruit and a juice box or you will go birding first, brought back to the lodge for a main breakfast, then go back out birding.

Any lodge that caters to birders should be no problem, they are used to our needs.  But what happens when you stay in a normal hotel and plan your own birding excursions?  Yesterday, two fellow travel bloggers pointed out scenarios when breakfasts are not served at convenient times.

Melinda of “Magic of Miles” posted that the breakfast sometimes ends too early for people who want to spend a leisurely morning in bed, then have a late breakfast.  This would also be the case for those who want to spend the morning birding, then come back for your buffet breakfast.

Brian Cohen of “The Gate” brought up the opposite problem – you have an early flight (or in our case want to leave early for birding) and the breakfast isn’t open yet.

In my situation where I am traveling on a tight budget I hate passing up a free meal or one that has been built into the price I paid for the room.  I try to use hotel points in larger cities such as Guayaquil and Panama City and in these cases the breakfast usually isn’t included.  Since I do a lot of research in advance, I will either ask the guide where we can get breakfast or buy something at a local supermarket to bring along.  If I am doing a self-drive birding trip, I will find out where we can eat near the location in advance and make sure I have enough cash or pre-purchased food from a supermarket.

If the breakfast is included and I don’t want to waste it, I will ask the hotel to give us a packed breakfast we can bring with us.  Most hotels will do this willingly, it actually saves them money over having us spend an hour at the buffet leisurely eating as we wish!  Depending on how far the hotel is from the birding site and if we are using a rental car, we may go out birding early, come back for the buffet, then go back out again.  If we do this, we usually don’t have to bother with lunch as we will be quite full so it saves a bit more money.

It’s also a good idea to find out the public conveniences (or lack thereof) in your birding location.  You don’t want to drink all that coffee and find yourself being constantly “inconvenienced”!  I tend to stick with water which I sip sparingly to keep hydrated but minimize inconveniences, then step up the hydration when we come back for lunch and siesta.

As always, doing your homework and being prepared goes a long way towards making your birding trip a success!

 

In Search Of The El Oro Parakeet

Most birders who come to Buenaventura Reserve are hoping to see the beautiful endangered El Oro Parakeet.  This petite parakeet would normally be a challenge to see in the wild but fortunately there is one special trail where they nest.  Access is limited and you must go there with a guide from Umbrellabird Lodge booked in advance with Jocotoco Foundation.  The trail is locked for the protection of the birds.

IMG_2176 IMG_2175 IMG_2177 IMG_2178

We arrived at the spot about an hour early, the parakeets usually show up around 5pm-ish so we looked for other birds in the meantime.  Not many around, here’s a Striped Cuckoo.IMG_2206a

Our patience was rewarded as the El Oro Parakeets started arriving right on schedule.  First they perched in the trees, then a pair went down to the nest box.  One bird went inside the nest while the other kept watch on top.  I couldn’t see if there were any babies inside but the behaviour of the adults suggested they were feeding babies.IMG_2186 IMG_2184a IMG_2193a IMG_2201a IMG_2200a IMG_2216 IMG_2217a IMG_2221a IMG_2237a IMG_2250a IMG_2251a IMG_2259a IMG_2272a DSCN0677 DSCN0687 DSCN0703 DSCN0675 DSCN0671 DSCN0666 DSCN0663

DSCN0741

EBIRD LIST

 

Lodge Review: Jocotoco’s Umbrellabird Lodge, Buenaventura

The Umbrellabird Lodge is managed by the Jocotoco Foundation and is a very beautiful but small property that can accommodate up to 14 people in 5 cabins.  You can get there by bus to Pinas or Machala, then by taxi-camioneta to the lodge which is 5km from the main road.

Entrance to reception and the restaurant.

DSCN0650

Our cabin was a short walk away.  The cabins are quite large, plenty of room and furnished comfortably.  They have an ensuite and fans but no wifi.DSCN0655 DSCN0654 DSCN0656 DSCN0657 DSCN0658 DSCN0659

The restaurant has a more open section which we preferred to take our meals so we could keep an eye out for birds.  There is always a lot of hummingbird action!   I had previously requested non-spicy food so we had soup and spaghetti for dinner which was really good.DSCN0652 DSCN0724 DSCN0742 DSCN0743

The Umbrellabird’s lek is down this trail but I recommend taking a guide as the birds can be very difficult to see if they are resting in the trees.  They don’t make any noise.DSCN0776 DSCN0775

The lodge has a small library with bird guidebooks and various novels, some local information and t-shirts and other souvenirs for sale.  DSCN0781 DSCN0782 DSCN0783

Of course I got an El Oro Parakeet t-shirt!DSCN0785

I forgot to get photos of breakfast but here is lunch taken on the open deck because who doesn’t want to dine with hummingbirds!DSCN0786 DSCN0787 DSCN0788

I’ll be covering the birding excursions on other posts.  This beautiful little lodge isn’t cheap but well worth it for at least a night, more if you can afford it.  Book direct with Jocotoco.

Visiting Buenaventura Reserve, Ecuador

The Buenaventura Reserve is managed by Jocotoco Foundation and is located in the south of Ecuador.  This is the home of the El Oro Parakeet so it’s well worth the effort to get there.  The nearest airport is Loja which is served by TAME airlines, then you can take a bus or taxi to Pinas, the nearest town.  You can also get buses from Guayaquil via Machala which are very cheap, less than $10 per person.  An overview and map of the reserve can be seen here.

We left Loja on the 9:15am bus which was very comfortable and only $6 per person.  If you miss the bus, you can get a taxi to Pinas but it will be over $100 so not  a good idea to miss the bus!

DSCN0625 DSCN0626 DSCN0627 DSCN0628 DSCN0629

It’s about a 5 hour ride through very beautiful scenery.DSCN0631 DSCN0632 DSCN0633 DSCN0634 DSCN0635

After arriving in Pinas, you can get a camioneta to the reserve and the Umbrellabird Lodge.  The road is pretty bad so don’t use a normal taxi.  DSCN0636 DSCN0637 DSCN0638

Awesome statue of an El Oro Parakeet!  I just love when local people honour their native birds!DSCN0639

And here’s one of a Jocotoco Antpitta.DSCN0641 DSCN0643

Turn off to the lodge.DSCN0644 DSCN0645 DSCN0646 DSCN0648 DSCN0649

At last we arrived!  After checking in and dropping off our backpacks, we asked the same camioneta driver to wait for us and take us and the lodge’s guide to the El Oro Parakeet hotspot which is about 10km from the lodge.  The whole transport cost around $30.DSCN0650

Repositioning To Loja Due To Road Conditions

As I had mentioned before, there were extensive delays on the road between Loja and Zamora due to mudslides.  I had planned to stay 2 nights at Copalinga Lodge and leave early in the morning to get the bus to Loja, then another one to Pinas.  We would have missed the bus if we had done that so Catherine of Coplinga Lodge graciously let us out of our second night without charging for it and called a taxi to take us to Zamora bus station.

Bus from Zamora to Loja.  I tried to get a shot of the backed-up traffic out the window but it was dirty.

DSCN0598 DSCN0601 DSCN0604

On arrival, I first scoped out the transport for the next day so we would have time to buy tickets and board the bus.  The office was closed but I noted the departure of 09:15.DSCN0606 DSCN0607 DSCN0605 DSCN0608

We then got a taxi to the Hotel Podocarpus that I had booked online before leaving Copalinga.  We passed this cool fort type building, couldn’t get a good shot.DSCN0613

The hotel was fine for a night, clean and decent sized rooms.  We were pretty tired so just decided to find food as close as possible, then crash out.DSCN0617 DSCN0618 DSCN0615

Bird motifs on the doors!DSCN0616

This chicken place was right around the corner on the main road.  We went for the $14.99 special which turned out to be WAY too much food for a couple, it was more suitable for a family of 4.DSCN0619 DSCN0620

Chicken foot soup was the first course.  I took a pass but my hungry husband wolfed it down.DSCN0621

View from the room.DSCN0622

Nice toucan carving!DSCN0623

Breakfast was included and was ok for the price.  DSCN0624

We then got a taxi to the bus station, I think it was around $3.