Gateway: Port Elizabeth, South Africa

GETTING THERE

Port Elizabeth  is South Africa’s fifth largest city and is located on the Indian Ocean coast half-way between Cape Town and Durban, in the Eastern Cape, about 260 km from Knysna.  It can be easily reached using Star Alliance miles on South African Airways or One World miles on British Airways. Using Avios is a good deal here as the JNB-PLZ route is 564 miles so only costs 4500 Avios one way.  Using United Mileage Plus would require 12,500 miles for the same route.  You may be able to get a good price using an online travel agent such as Expedia too.

WHERE TO STAY ON POINTS

Port Elizabeth is a pleasant city at the end of the Garden Route but for eco-tourists it will just be a jumping off point to nearby game reserves and the Hogsback region further east which has one of the subspecies of Cape Parrot which I will cover in a separate post.  You won’t want to stay here long, maybe a day or two if you make the day trip to Birds of Eden (separate blog post) in Plettenburg Bay.

Club Carlson:  Radisson Blu Port Elizabeth costs 38,000 points per night, with a BOGO if you have the credit card.

I wouldn’t worry too much about hotel points here as there are plenty of guest houses and hotels under $75 including these two.

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If your flight lands early enough, you may just want to pick up a rental car and head off straight away.  Warning, automatic cars are quite a bit more expensive than manuals.  In my example, there were manual cars starting from $46 a day.

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WHAT TO SEE

Port Elizabeth is well placed to see several game parks.

  • African Dawn (Wildlife Sanctuary), Thornhill, 042 2860 710,  9am-5pm. African Dawn Bird and Wildlife Sanctuary offers a selection of birds and wildlife to view including Cheetahs, Servals and much more. Braai and picnic places available.
  • Kragga Kamma Game Park, (Follow the M15 west from the city center for about 15 minutes), +27 (0)41 379-4195 (cantor@worldonline.co.za). Gates are open from 8AM to 5PM. You can either sleep in the camp or take self drives during the Day. White Rhino, Buffalo, Cheetah, Giraffe, Zebra and others. Excellent value small park. R30 entrance fee.
  • Roseate Tern hiking trial, Next to Pine Lodge Resort off Marine Drive, Summerstrand, +27 (0)41 585-9711. 9 km circular trail.
  • Pumba Private Game Reserve, +27466032000.   Day guests can experience the Day Safaris, which are conducted all year round. Each package is tailored to the needs and wants of the individual group, but individual safari times will depend on the season. Visitors can look forward to seeing cheetahs, rhinos, elephants, hippos, lions, buffaloes, White Lions, leopards and a host of other exciting animals.
  • Visit Addo Elephant National Park.
  • Kariega Game Reserve, (90 minutes outside PE), +27 (0)46 636-7904.
  • Shamwari Game Reserve, (45 minutes outside PE), +27 (0)42 203-1111 (fax: +27 (0)42 235-1224).
  • Visit Mountain Zebra National Park.
  • Visit Tsitsikamma National Park.

Lodge Review: Kurisa Moya, Magoebaskloof, South Africa

Kurisa Moya has several types of accommodation available including a farm house and the two Forest Lodge cabins.  The farm’s varied habitats are home to about 250 species of birds, including the Narina Trogan, the Black-fronted Bush Shrike, the Green Twinspot and the Buff-spotted Flufftail. The Woodbush area is one of the top birding sites as mentioned in Callan Cohen, Claire Spottiswood and Jonathan Rossouw’s book South African Birdfinder and in Hugh Chittendin’s book, Top Birding Spots in Southern Africa.   Co-owner, Ben de Boer, the co-ordinator of the Greater Limpopo Birding Routes is an avid birder and can offer birders great advice. Guided walks or outings in the area can be organized with renowned local guide, David Letsoalo, who is based at Kurisa Moya.  Of course being parrot lovers above all, we were hoping to see some of the few Cape Parrots (Poicephalus robustus robustus)  left in the world.  There are around 80 in Magoebaskloof and according to the Cape Parrot Working Group, they counted 1229 on the last census that took place the first weekend of May.  More details are on their website.    You can book both accommodation at Kurisa Moya and birding walks with David on their website.

If you are coming direct from Polokwane, you will have a good tar road all the way to the turnoff to the lodge, then you have 2.3km of a really rough road. Like the previous reviewer, we did this trip in the dark coming from Phalaborwa where the first 9km or so are also a bad road and we had a little Ford Focus.

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Once you actually get there, it is a wonderful eco-lodge and ideal for bird watchers. You can book tours with one of the top bird guides in South Africa-David Letsoalo and he will do everything he can to find the species you are interested in. For us, it was Cape Parrots which were very elusive on the first day (heard but not seen) but the second day, we got to see 5 of them!

We stayed in the Forest Lodge which overlooks primary rainforest and even though it rained the first day, we still saw lots of birds, we also went up to the farm house to see birds in the garden. We self catered with pre-packaged supermarket food but you can also get Lisa, the owner to cook you a meal and judging by the guestbook comments, she is a great cook! The lodge is gorgeous, very rustic and charming, well stocked wood burning fireplace. It gets pretty chilly at night so you need lots of wood! We did two of the walks on the property (Bird Watchers and Forest Walk) which were really nice.

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If you want to do a bird watching tour with David, you will need a 4WD, there is no way a little sedan car would make it in the Woodbush Forest roads. We paid extra to use his truck. Also, bring all the food you need if you are self-catering, there is no place to shop nearby and you also need to charge up your camera and cell phone batteries.  Shopping is available nearby, see my Destination Magoebaskloof post.

Kurisa Moya is a wonderful place to visit if you love nature and especially birds!  Judging by the rave reviews on Trip Advisor, I am not alone in my opinion!

Destination: Magoebaskloof, South Africa

Easily accessible from both Johannesburg and Kruger National Park, the Magoebaskloof region is a mecca for birders.

Magoebaskloof is a beautiful mountainous area in the Limpopo Province at the very North Eastern tip of the Drakensberg mountain range. Fondly called “The Land of the Silver Mist” by historians and locals alike, the mountains and valleys of the area are regularly shrouded in a soft mist. This mist belt has resulted in the lush afro-montane forests that make the area a welcome green oasis in the Limpopo bushveld.

The name means Magoeba’s Valley, but the Magoebaskloof is in fact a series of valleys named after a tribal chief who had his head chopped off by warriors serving under Boer commander Abel Erasmus in 1895.

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The main town in Magoebaskloof is Haernertsburg and there are several stores here where you can stock up on snacks, drinks and food for self-catering.  There is a good list here. 

The area boasts many charming small hotels and Bed & Breakfast type places.  I can personally recommend Kurisa Moya (lodge review) for birders.  There is a good accommodation list here and you can also check Trip Advisor for recommendations.

If birding (and Cape Parrots) are your main attraction to this area, stay tuned for my birding trip report from 2009!

Cape Parrots (Poicephalus robustus) Of South Africa

The Cape Parrot (Poicephalus robustus) or Levaillant’s Parrot is a large, temperate forest dwelling Poicephalus parrot endemic to South Africa. It has 2 subspecies which may be considered distinct species, the savanna dwelling Brown-necked Parrot (ssp. fuscicollis) and Grey-headed Parrot (ssp. suahelicus).One of the most endangered parrots species in the world, the Cape Parrot can be seen in a few places with the help of local guides.

Cape Parrot

You will have to look closely to find the green shading that represents their natural habitat.

Cape Parrot Range

I was lucky enough to see them in 2009.  I wrote an article for my main website, Feathered and Free.  The Magoebaskloof region in the Limpopo region which is an easy half day’s drive from Johannesburg.  I will be going into greater detail on this area later.

Let’s learn more about them with this video.  I found it originally on this article about Cape Parrots which has lots of information and more videos.