Booking Buses In India

If you are visiting India for birding and eco-tourism, airline miles won’t get you to where you need to be.  You will need to take buses from the main cities to the small towns closest to the national parks and reserves.  Although most bus companies have online sales, they require an Indian mobile phone to complete the order and in most cases an Indian credit card as well.  For some bus routes, you can use Make My Trip.  In other cases you will have to wait until you arrive in India and make your bookings locally.  This usually won’t be a problem as the comfortable AC buses are rarely fully booked unless there is a holiday such as Holi or Diwali.  Unfortunately the United States tab only allows you to book flights, hotels and holiday packages, not buses or trains.  But you can still do research and plan in advance!

.

Notice how you can choose the Gudalur pick up point as well as the main Ooty bus station.

.

You won’t get any further without an Indian mobile phone number just as you see below in the Red Bus example.  But this is a useful tool to search routes and prices.  You should search all the tools as not all bus companies are represented by each booking agent.

Red Bus has many bus routes all over India.  You can use this website to get an idea of timings and prices.  If you buy a SIM card in India, you will be able to book these tickets online.  Here is an example of a route from Kochi to Bangalore.  This is a 12 hour trip so most people would want a comfortable sleeper bus, see the yellow highlights below.

.

When you click on view seats, you will see a chart of available seats.  Select an open seat and you will see the price.

.

This is where you will get stuck as you need an Indian mobile phone and it won’t let you change the country code.

 

.

The last tool you should check, especially for the routes in my Coorg & Mudumalai blogs is Karnataka State Road Transport Corporation.  You won’t be able to use this site to book online either but they will have extensive routes all over the state and you can book any of their routes in advance at any bus station served by KSRTC.  Here’s a sample display to get from Bangalore to Gonikoppal in Coorg.  A few things to notice is that some buses leave from Shanthinagar bus stand in the city centre and some leave from the Mysore Road bus stand (near the Transit Hotel I stayed in).  Given Bangalore’s extreme traffic jams, it’s best to use this bus stand.  We wanted that early bus at 5:45 but couldn’t find it and ended up on a Mysore bus which worked out fine.  The help desk and ticket office weren’t open that early and I couldn’t find anyone who spoke English to help us.

.

Buses are a great way to travel around India!  I found the locals were very friendly and the AC buses are comfortable.

IMG_3001 IMG_3002 IMG_3003

Asian Paradise Flycatcher (Terpsiphone paradisi)

The Asian Paradise Flycatcher (Terpsiphone paradisi) is a medium-sized passerine bird native to Asia. Males have elongated central tail feathers, and in some populations a black and rufous plumage while others have white plumage. Females are short-tailed with rufous wings and a black head. They feed on insects, which they capture in the air often below a densely canopied tree.  This one I saw at Gouri Farms in Gudalur is a mature male.

IMG_2932 IMG_2942With an extremely large range and a large population that appears to be stable, they have been evaluated as Least Concern by IUCN since 2004.  This is great news for birders as we have a lot of opportunites to see this stunning bird.  Get your award ticket to Central Asia or South-east Asia and try any of the national parks.  Southern India is a great place to start, especially Mudumalai National Park.

.

LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BIRD

Wikipedia

Birdlife

FES

VIDEOS

This bird is poetry in motion!

 And a good parent (though I wouldn’t want to eat that bug either)!

Mudumalai National Park, Tamil Nadu, India

Mudumalai National Park is located in Tamil Nadu (fly to Bangalore on a Central Asian award, then take a bus) and adjoins Wayanad in Kerala and Bandipur in Karnataka.  The very impressive bird list includes (to name a few) Malabar Trogon, Malabar Whistling Thrush, Large Racket-Tailed Drongos, Spotted Babbler, Green Pigeons, Brown Dove, Malabar Grey Hornbill, Parakeets, Bulbuls, Cuckoos, Hornbills, Scops Owl, Tiny-eared Owl, Black Woodpecker, Mynas, Barbets to name a few. Among birds of prey, the Crested Hawk Eagles, Crested Serpent Eagle, Buzzards, Harriers, Falcons and the King Vulture are predominant. The Mudumalai National Park also attracts a considerable number of migratory water birds.  Most tourists come here hoping to see a tiger (and usually don’t) but still enjoy watching elephants and monkeys which are easily seen.

The main Ooty-Mysore road runs straight through both Mudumalai and Bandipur so you may be lucky enough to see wildlife from your car, especially monkeys!  If you want to really get into the park, you must take a tour from the park headquarters.

IMG_2848 IMG_2849

Deer are seen everywhere!

IMG_2850 IMG_2851

And it was pretty cool to see peacocks!

IMG_2852 IMG_2854 IMG_2856

This is where the main park headquarters is.

IMG_2857 IMG_2858

We had hired a jeep for the afternoon and he parked here while we walked up to where you buy tickets.

IMG_2859 IMG_2860

Monkeys hoping for a handout.

IMG_2862

Book the safari here.  It was around 135 rupees, 25 rupees for a camera and the minibus goes when full.  We only had to wait about 20 minutes to get enough people.

IMG_2863 IMG_2864 IMG_2865

Off we went and promptly saw more deer and peacocks.

IMG_2867 IMG_2869 IMG_2870 IMG_2873 IMG_2874 IMG_2875 IMG_2876 IMG_2877 IMG_2878 IMG_2880 IMG_2881

This was my best find, I saw the flash of green in the trees and knew it had to be parakeets.  It wasn’t until I zoomed in that I was able to identify Plum-headed Parakeets.  I was the only one in the minibus who was excited to see them, the other (Indian) tourists didn’t even lift their cameras!

IMG_2884 IMG_2886 IMG_2888 IMG_2883a IMG_2884a IMG_2885a IMG_2886a IMG_2890 IMG_2893 IMG_2894

Monkeys were of greater interest to the other tourists.

IMG_2895 IMG_2897 IMG_2899 IMG_2902 IMG_2904 IMG_2906 IMG_2907 IMG_2908 IMG_2909After the safari which lasted about an hour, we were led across the street to see the elephant feeding……………and more monkeys!  This is included in the cost of the safari.

IMG_2910 IMG_2911 IMG_2913 IMG_2914 IMG_2915 IMG_2916 IMG_2917 IMG_2918 IMG_2919 IMG_2920 IMG_2921 IMG_2922

Lodge Review: Gouri Farms, Gudalur Near Mudumalai National Park, India

I knew I wanted to visit Mudumalai as the bird list is very impressive……………….oh yeah, they have tigers too!  My search on a reasonably priced place to stay nearby had me searching Google maps for the nearest towns and typing the name of the towns into Trip Advisor.  That’s how I found Gouri Farms…………………and what a great find!

IMG_2841The map on the website is pretty good if you just look for the landmarks but our nervous taxi driver kept stopping to ask for directions.  We got there just after noon and were greeted by Dr Shyla and her family.

We were only staying one night to visit Mudumalai so we booked the smallest double room but they have rooms of all sizes available and would be a great place for a bird watching group.  Breakfast is included and you can also order meals in advance for a good price (less than $5).  They only serve vegetarian meals but they will cater to tourists who don’t want spicy food.

IMG_2843 IMG_2842

The grounds are very birdy and in the morning, Dr Shyla and her family helped me find some gorgeous birds like a Paradise Flycatcher!

IMG_2844 IMG_2845 IMG_2846 IMG_2932 IMG_2930 IMG_2924 IMG_2936 IMG_2940 IMG_2942 IMG_2944 IMG_2946 IMG_2948 IMG_2949 IMG_2954 IMG_2952 IMG_2955 IMG_2956 IMG_2958 IMG_2960 IMG_2964 IMG_2968 IMG_2970 IMG_2972 IMG_2974

 

 

 

Getting From Wayanad To Mudumalai

The distances are not that far so getting from Wayanad to Mudumalai can be done in a few hours by public transport if you get the timings right.

Grassroots – Pinangode – Sulthan Bathery – Gudalur – Mudumalai

We took an auto-rickshaw from Grassroots to the bus stand at Pinangode.  Some of the buses are very attractively decorated!

IMG_2819 IMG_2820Next we caught a bus to Sultan Bathery.  These buses can be very crowed and we had to stand at first, then when some people got out enroute we grabbed their seats.  The scenery was very nice!

IMG_2821Once we arrived in Sultan Bathery, we found out the next bus to Gudalur wouldn’t be for another 3 hours.  Even monkeys playing nearby weren’t going to keep me in a bus station for 3 hours!

IMG_2822 IMG_2823

We asked a taxi driver to take us, he said that there are special taxis that do long distance routes and he would send one over to the bus station.  20 minutes later, one showed up and we paid about $20ish for the ride to Gudalur.

IMG_2824 IMG_2825

We traveled through Mudumalai Tiger Reserve but didn’t see any tigers.  Few people ever do.

IMG_2826 IMG_2827

The scenery was great!

IMG_2828 IMG_2829 IMG_2830 IMG_2831 IMG_2832 IMG_2833 IMG_2834

We arrived in Gudalur and while the taxi driver was asking some locals how to get to Gouri Farm, I bought some snacks that I hoped wouldn’t be too spicy to bring along for lunch.

IMG_2835 IMG_2836 IMG_2837

Finally we arrived at Gouri Farm where the owner, Dr Shyla was there to greet us!

IMG_2841

Birding In Wayanad, Kerala

Wayanad, in India’s Western Ghats offers pretty much the same species as Coorg in Karnataka and Mudumalai in Tamil Nadu.  We stayed at the Grassroots Wayanad Lodge near Kalpetta which is between Bangalore and Kochi so either can serve as your gateway city for your Central Asia award.  We had Adi (Aditya) the owner organize a local guide with a jeep to take us birding.  He was a bit late picking us up but we did see a few more birds along the roadside just outside the lodge.

IMG_2668 IMG_2672 IMG_2672a IMG_2675 IMG_2679 IMG_2682 IMG_2683a IMG_2686 IMG_2687 IMG_2689 IMG_2691 IMG_2692 IMG_2693 IMG_2695 IMG_2696 IMG_2699a IMG_2701 IMG_2703 IMG_2703a IMG_2705 IMG_2707 IMG_2709 IMG_2710 IMG_2712 IMG_2714 IMG_2715 IMG_2716 IMG_2719 IMG_2721

While having breakfast, we watched some kids playing soccer.

IMG_2717 IMG_2724

The driver finally showed up and we headed off to the nearby rainforest along the river to look for birds.  We started too late to get really good sightings but the butterflies were numerous and very pretty.

IMG_2743 IMG_2744 IMG_2725 IMG_2726 IMG_2727 IMG_2729 IMG_2735 IMG_2738 IMG_2741 IMG_2747 IMG_2748 IMG_2749 IMG_2751 IMG_2752 IMG_2754 IMG_2761 IMG_2765 IMG_2771 IMG_2783 IMG_2782 IMG_2784 IMG_2787 IMG_2788Next we visited a lake that seemed to be a popular picnic spot for locals with pedal boats for hire.  It wasn’t very birdy though.

IMG_2790 IMG_2789

We saw a few more birds including a female Scarlet Minivet on the way back, then picked up some takeaway food to bring back to Grassroots for lunch.  We pulled over an ice cream seller on a motorcyle and bought some ice cream to take back as well.

IMG_2795 IMG_2796 IMG_2798 IMG_2800 IMG_2804 IMG_2810 IMG_2792

50% Off Sale – Various Airlines In India

If you’ve been reading my recent series on birding in Coorg or my series last year on birding in Kerala and are inspired to make your own trip you are in luck!  3 of India’s airlines are offering 50% off sales.  They had a similar sale last year too.  Use your miles to get to India, then pick up on some of these bargain domestic routes!

SpiceJet

IndiGo

Go Air

HT:  Live From A Lounge

If you are going to Delhi, why not tag on a visit to Bangalore, then to Coorg?

.

Or combine Bollywood glamour with dazzling birds in Kerala!

.

Enjoying Coorg (Kodagu)’s Towns & Countryside

Coorg is one of the favourite spots for Bangalore residents to escape their busy lives and enjoy the countryside.  Foreign tourists are much rarer as Coorg doesn’t seem to get the publicity places like Kerala and Goa get but they are starting to come.  If you can afford a car and driver, that is obviously the most comfortable way to visit Coorg.  Otherwise, you can also use local buses to get from one town to another and hire taxis for day trips.

Here area a few shots I took while touring the countryside.  With places like this, it’s fun just to watch the people going about their everyday lives.  It’s easy to find small shops for snacks in the villages.

IMG_1543 IMG_1541 IMG_1540 IMG_1539 IMG_1538

If you are REALLY hungry, a meal of fresh juice, snakes & ice cream may hit the spot!

IMG_1634 IMG_1687 IMG_1637 IMG_1688 IMG_1638 IMG_1692 IMG_1639 IMG_1697 IMG_1698 IMG_1640 IMG_1701 IMG_1702 IMG_1641 IMG_1703 IMG_1642 IMG_1644 IMG_1704 IMG_1706 IMG_1646 IMG_1648 IMG_1707 IMG_1708

Lodge Review: Casa Coorg, India

Coorg is actually a very large district between Bangalore & Mangalore called Kodagu. Casa Coorg is located near Virajpet.  If you take a bus, get on one that stops at Virajpet.  The owners, Bharat & Pearl will tell you how to reach the house from where you get off the bus.

.

On our previous trip to India, we stayed at Casa Coorg with some local friends.  At the time, they were just getting started as a homestay and now they have a complete website, online bookings and details about the area.  I only got a few photos of the property but they do have more on their website.  The rooms are very comfortable and have a deck overlooking the coffee plantation.  The entire area is stunning!  People from Bangalore love to come here to escape the hustle & bustle of the city and enjoy the fresh air in teh countryside.  Birdwatchers will love the variety of birds to be seen here, they have counted over 40 species on the property.  Prices are listed on their website and are quite reasonable.  Casa Coorg also has rave reviews on Trip Advisor.

IMG_1562 IMG_1563

There are some great walks to do in the area.  You can see some coffee plantation workers at work, enjoy the peaceful countryside and watch birds!

IMG_1597 IMG_1593 IMG_1594 IMG_1596 IMG_1601 IMG_1592 IMG_1585a IMG_1584a IMG_1580 IMG_1579 IMG_1564 IMG_1546 IMG_1550 IMG_1613 IMG_1615 IMG_1616a IMG_1617 IMG_1621 IMG_1629 IMG_1647 IMG_1630 IMG_1648 IMG_1633 IMG_1649

IMG_1630 IMG_1597

You can’t ask for nicer and friendlier hosts than Bharat & Pearl!  They are both fluent in English and Pearl is a fantastic cook!  She will accommodate preferences for non-spicy food.  This is an excellent place for both Indian and foreign tourists to stay.  They really make you feel like one of the family!

IMG_1578I couldn’t resist the chance to wear a saree, and Pearl was kind enough to help me wrap it around myself!

IMG_1566

 

SAI Sanctuary: The Birds & Animals

SAI Sanctuary is one of the most relaxing places ever to just kick back and watch the birds and animals.  One very pleasant surprise is the usually elusive and shy Sambar Deer.

IMG_2550 IMG_2548 IMG_2549

IMG_1656 IMG_1662Many different bird species frequent the stream, even the local chickens!

IMG_2506 IMG_2507 IMG_2509 IMG_2511 IMG_2514 IMG_2515 IMG_2516 IMG_2572

Even the insects can be interesting!

IMG_2574 IMG_2513They have a rooftop deck which is a superb place to see the birdlife for miles around.  We were all up there when the heavens opened with a torrential downpour.  We had to retreat inside and wait it out.  While we were chatting under the roof, Anil heard a flock of Malabar Parakeets.  I grabbed my camera and ran as fast as I could and followed him to the rear deck,  but they were too fast and disappeared into the forest.  When the rain stopped, we went back out on the deck and I got a few shots of some other birds.

IMG_2575 IMG_2576 IMG_2578 IMG_2579 IMG_2581Another flock of Malabar Parakeets decided to surprise us, approaching from the rear without the usual parakeet squawking and flew over our heads.  Once again, I was too slow with the camera but at least I got to see a small flock of them!