South African Airways Delay Costs Us Our First Night In Namibia

After a relaxing morning at the Intercontinental Lusaka, it was time to go to the airport.  About noon, I got an email that the flight was delayed 30 minutes.  At this point I wasn’t worried as we would have still made our connection in JNB to WDH.  We used the free shuttle and went straight to South African Airways check in where we learned the delay was now an hour.  This was cutting it way too close so we went to the Priority Pass Lounge and I got on Twitter and tried to arrange a fast track to make the flight.  The Twitter was very unresponsive but when we arrived in JNB I saw that someone had finally replied asking for my phone # so they could call.  Too late and I didn’t have a working SIM card, I was just using wifi.

The lounge in Lusaka is very small with a few snacks and drinks available.  Normally we wouldn’t have bothered but I needed the wifi and I still had one pass left so I used it.

There are several souvenir shops like this one in Lusaka’s airport.

The departure was pushed back again, now we would be arriving with 20 minutes to run and make the connection.

I was desperate to make it as we had a very nice hotel booked called the Etango Ranch Guest Farm that had bird baths attracting many species so the plan was to spend the morning and then pick up the car and drive to Etosha.

I tried really hard.  The minute we boarded, I was asking the FA’s to radio JNB and have people waiting to transfer us to the other plane.  They just said to check with the ground crew.  Very unhelpful!  We weren’t the only ones, there were several people connecting to various places in Europe.  Some were as worried as I was, some didn’t care as they were only headed home and didn’t mind a free layover at SA’s expense.

It didn’t help that the plane landed on the tarmac, not at a gate so we had to wait for buses to transfer us to the terminal.  I noticed a few planes right next to us, one of these was probably our WDH flight.  In retrospect, I should have tried to sneak over, we already had boarding passes and no checked bags.

We ended up having to go through a transit passport control, security and RUN to the gate.  The WDH flight was still there!  We are not in great physical shape so were breathless and exhausted, almost ready to pass out from the run.  In spite of all my attempts to connect to SA staff and have the plane held, the ground staff had no idea we were coming.  The gate had barely been closed.  I begged them to radio the pilot or FA’s and ask them to let us run out there and board.  It would have taken 5 minutes, we had our backpacks and boarding passes.  The gate agent did try but the captain (or someone) refused to even give us those 5 minutes.  Even though it was the airline’s fault we were late!  It was the last flight of the day and there were no connections leaving WDH so no one else would have been inconvenienced by a 5 minute wait.

After being refused the chance to board, we were sent to the transfer desk and waited in a long line of people waiting for re-accommodation.  The agent was in a foul mood maybe because there were a lot of people who missed their flights.  She rebooked us on the first SA flight which was around 9am.  I tried for the 7am Air Namibia flight but she refused and said we were lucky to get the morning flight as we got the last 2 seats, otherwise we would have to wait for the evening flight.  She gave us a choice of the airport Protea Hotel or a hotel outside the terminal.  Since it was only an overnight, we had no desire to pass through formalities and wait in more lines so took the Protea.

As far as in-airport hotels go, the Protea is actually pretty nice and any other time we would have been happy to have an overnight here.  It just didn’t compare to the lodge we already had booked, certainly there were no bird baths!  There were showers for humans which we made good use of (after all that running, we needed it) and the bed was comfy.  They gave 30 min free internet, time enough to email the Etango Ranch and tell them not to come to the airport to pick us up.  They still got to keep the money from our pre-paid room.

We also got vouchers for dinner and breakfast at Mugg & Bean which turned out to have really good food!  It was hard to spend the whole dinner voucher as we couldn’t use it for alcohol and the menu was very reasonable.  The breakfast one was a bit tighter, I would have preferred to swap them around as we weren’t real hungry that night.

We did get a good sleep after all that frustration and rushing around, we were just exhausted!  The flight the next morning was on time and we made it to WDH in time to pick up the rental car since I had allowed for a leisurely breakfast and walk around Etango Ranch.

 

A Quick Visit To The Kabwata Cultural Village, Lusaka

I always love to go shopping at local markets, especially ones where the crafts people are on hand selling their own creations.  So we took a taxi for a negotiated fare outside the Intercontinental to the Kabwata Cultural Village including about 30 minutes waiting time.

It’s basically a group of huts around an open area where cars can park.  Each hut is occupied by one or more crafts people selling their wares.  Some sellers have open air stalls.  Bargaining is essential, aim for roughly half what they quote up front.  We weren’t after big ticket items so I wasn’t as ruthless a bargainer as I had been back in the day but we came away with some cool stuff!

This hut was like a women’s co-op or something, they had nice stuff!

Interesting signs on the way home.

Lusaka Secretariat

Whatever this was, I missed the shot, but that tree just looks so funny with the white trunk!

The taxi dropped us back  at the hotel and it was time to pack up and go to the airport.  Little did we know the trouble was yet to come……………….

Hotel Review: Intercontinental, Lusaka

Our journey through Zambia was coming to an end and the next day we would fly to Windhoek via JNB.  After all those bus rides and accommodation ranging from backpackers to cheap hotels to safari lodges.  Now it was time to pamper ourselves in a bit of luxury courtesy of my Chase Free Night benefit with the IHG Rewards card at the Intercontinental Lusaka.

We took a taxi from the Lusaka Intercity Bus Terminus, I think it was 30-40ish Kwacha.  One of these days I have to remember to write down taxi fares.

The large lobby had a special desk for IHG elite members which I had from my IHG credit card so we had a relaxed check-in, then admired some artwork before heading up to the room with our out-of-place backpacks.

The room was typical of a 4 star hotel and had a nice view of the swimming pool.

Yay, a bath tub!

As an elite, I was gifted with wine and fruit in the room, a nice touch!

Free wifi that works very well!

We decided to just hang out and relax, I wanted to catch up online so we got room service for dinner.  I had some kind of pasta, my husband had kebabs and chips.  We aren’t foodies so it was all good.  I really just wanted internet!

Our hunger sated, I looked out the window for birds, not too many around.  If we hadn’t been so tired we would have gone for a walk, the grounds were pretty nice.

Safari Bar is near the restaurant which overlooks the swimming pool.

The fabulous buffet breakfast wasn’t included on a free stay but it sure was delicious!  We ate so much, we didn’t need lunch!

Waffles & pancakes

Omelette station

Afterwards we went down to the pool.  It was a bit too cold to swim that day so we just hung out a bit.

Dark-capped Bulbul

We really enjoyed out stay here and the staff treated us very well.  One man told us where to find cheaper taxis ( the official hotel taxis are expensive) and when check out was delayed due to a new person not knowing how to process the free stay, I was gifted 5000 IHG Rewards points without even asking!  They have a free airport shuttle which waited for us to settle our bill.  The flight was delayed anyways.  I’m happy to recommend the Intercontinental Lusaka!

The Zambian Bus Experience Part 2 – Lusaka To Mfuwe (South Luangwa NP)

There is only one bus company at time of writing that does the trip directly from Lusaka to Mfuwe on one bus.  Otherwise you have to change buses in Chipata, get a minibus or hire a taxi if you miss the last one.  Jonda Bus is a good bus company and the 2 drivers we had (outbound and return) were safe and didn’t use their phones while driving.

OUTBOUND LUSAKA TO MFUWE

There is only one direct bus to Mfuwe leaving at 5am but you should be there by 4:30 max to board and claim your seat.  I strongly recommend buying tickets the day before at least as there were no extra tickets available the time we arrived.  I hadn’t been aware this was a 2 x 3 seater and after the last experience on this configuration, I wanted to switch our 2 seats to 3 seats with an empty middle and pay for the extra seat.  It wasn’t possible as the bus was full.  Tickets are 220 Kwacha ($23-ish) and for a 11-12 hour bus trip I would have gladly paid for more comfort.

For the return we did book 3 seats, much better!  Look how cramped we were, my husband is a big guy!

The cooler/esky in the front contains juice boxes which are passed out together with a bag of chips, included in the fare.  At stops, people would come up selling drinks and snacks.

We passed through several small villages with interesting markets.  They also make roadside stops for toiletting in the bush but be careful!  I was forced to use one of these and a local lady cautioned me to beware of snakes!   From that point, I drank sparingly until we arrived in Mfuwe.

We reached Chipata around lunch time-1pm-ish.  They have pay toilets at the bus station and a few small shops for food and drinks.

Chipata was the largest town after Lusaka.

The toilet is behind the Jonda ticket office.

We reached Mfuwe around 4:30pm and the first thing I did was go into the office and buy 3 tickets for the return to Lusaka!  A lady from the Murula Lodge was waiting for us in a safari truck so off we went!

 

BACK TO LUSAKA

Same thing, bus leaves at 5am, be there by 4:30 latest.  Seat numbers aren’t written on tickets although we were quick to claim the 3 right behind the driver to maximize leg room.  These are the best seats on the bus if you can get them.

Wow, I look so tired!

It was dark when we left so I tried to sleep but failed.  After a couple hours we arrived in Chipata and the bus started to fill up.  I had to show our 3 tickets a few times to people who wanted to take one of our seats.

Getting close to Lusaka!

Grabbing a last minute drink for the staff.

Once we arrived at Lusaka Intercity Bus Terminal, we grabbed a taxi to the Intercontinental Lusaka (great use of a Chase free night) for some well-deserved luxury!

 

Hotel Review: Crown Plaza Inn, Lusaka

We had an overnight stay in Lusaka between 2 bus trips.  First we would arrive from Livingstone on Shalom bus and the next morning, we needed to be at the Lusaka Bus Terminal at 4:30 for the Johabie Express but to Mfuwe.  A cheap hotel near the bus station was in order.  After much research, I finally decided on the Crown Plaza Inn which (according to Google maps) was close to the bus station and very cheap.

We arrived around 6pm and it was already dark so I forgot to get the exterior shot.  Please enjoy this bright pink hallway instead!

The room was quite simple but considering it was about $20-ish we couldn’t complain.  The wifi worked but was really slow.

I could say that it was in need of a renovation, but you do get what you pay for. 

The staff were friendly and offered to book a taxi to the bus station the next morning but we had already arranged with the driver who brought us to come back for us.  There is no restaurant on the premises and we left around 4:15 so too early for the included breakfast.  They have soft drinks and water for sale.  Any shopping centres within walking distance were closed so we couldn’t go out for dinner and this isn’t an area where you want to be walking around after dark.  Thankfully we had some snacks we had brought on the bus and that was basically dinner!

Over all, it was ok for an overnight, especially since we arrived late and would be leaving early so the only facility I wanted was wifi and I got it, albeit slower than I liked.