Stunning Birds In Waigeo, Easy Birding

Actually the first day of birding wasn’t THAT easy.  We had hired a normal car to get up the hill from which we would have a short hike to the hides for Wilson’s Bird of Paradise and the Red Bird of Paradise.  We got about halfway up, then the road became so bad (potholed) that only a high-clearance 4WD was going to get up the hill.  It was hot and a tough slug up but at least we weren’t walking in mud!  The next day, we used a 4WD truck and had a very pleasant and much easier day of birding.  There are lots of birds to see in Raja Ampat.  There’s a full birdlist on Avibase.  Since I was targeting parrots and the 2 BOPs, I will copy the parrot list here and highlight in red the ones we actually saw during our 2 day stay on Waigeo.

Psittacidae
Orange-fronted Hanging Parrot Loriculus aurantiifrons
Yellow-capped Pygmy Parrot Micropsitta keiensis
Palm Cockatoo Probosciger aterrimus
Sulphur-crested Cockatoo Cacatua galerita
Black Lory Chalcopsitta atra
Violet-necked Lory Eos squamata Endemic (country/region)
Rainbow Lorikeet Trichoglossus haematodus
Black-capped Lory Lorius lory
Red-flanked Lorikeet Charmosyna placentis
Red-cheeked Parrot Geoffroyus geoffroyi
Great-billed Parrot Tanygnathus megalorynchos
Eclectus Parrot Eclectus roratus
Moluccan King Parrot Alisterus amboinensis Endemic (country/region)
Double-eyed Fig Parrot Cyclopsitta diophthalma
Large Fig Parrot Psittaculirostris desmarestii

 

Benny leads the way

Benny leads the way

Hasna from HamuEco Lodge had organized Benny to be our guide as he knows the locations of the Wilson’s Bird of Paradise and Red Bird of Paradise (BOPs) and had even built hides in their display grounds.  He charged us 150,000 rupiahs per person per day and he can be reached on his mobile phone 0852 54881306 or though Hasna at HamuEco via their Facebook page.  Once you get up the hill, it’s a short walk to the grounds where you see the BOPs.   It’s not too steep but can be muddy after rain.  There are plenty of fallen logs to sit on if you need a rest.  Once you are in the hide, you need to be very quiet so you don’t scare the birds away.

Walking through unspoiled rainforest to the Wilson BOP display grounds

Walking through unspoiled rainforest to the Wilson BOP display grounds

The hide Benny made to conceal us from the Wilson's BOP, unfortunately he wasn't fooled!

The hide Benny made to conceal us from the Wilson’s BOP, unfortunately he wasn’t fooled!

The Red BOP hide was larger and featured wooden log benches

The Red BOP hide was larger and featured wooden log benches

Benny and friend in the Red BOP hide

Benny and friend in the Red BOP hide

Of course there are several parrot species in Waigeo too and they can easily be seen flying overhead on the same hill you walk up for the BOPs.  I also saw Palm Cockatoos flying over the trees while relaxing in my overwater bungalow at HamuEco.  Once again, I didn’t get very good shots other than the Eclectus Parrot who was perching.  The other parrots were what I call “Video Game Birds” – meaning they fly quickly overhead or off in the distance.  My challenge is to try to get the little red dot in my viewfinder on the flying bird and hold it long enough to get a shot, all the while trying to hold 3 kgs worth of camera and 400mm lens!  I never was any good at video games, LOL!  Don’t consider these as professional photos, they are far from it.  What they are good for is showing you how far you will be from the birds and what sort of gear you will need to bring in an attempt to get photos.  I didn’t bring a tripod as it’s pretty much useless for flying birds and hiking through the rainforest.  I didn’t have much choice about the back-lighting so sorry about all the silhouettes!

A flock of Blyth's Hornbill fly overhead at dawn

A flock of Blyth’s Hornbill fly overhead at dawn

Sulphur Crested (Triton subspecies) Cockatoos

Sulphur Crested (Triton subspecies) Cockatoos

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Female Eclectus Parrot

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This Palm Cockatoo was too fast for me

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And there goes another Palm Cockatoo!

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Peregrine Falcon

Perching Female Eclectus Parrot

Perching Female Eclectus Parrot (yes, that was at full 400mm zoom!)

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Pair of Eclectus Parrots

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Female Eclectus Parrot in flight

Find the hidden Rainbow Lorikeet (he has his wing up)

Find the hidden Rainbow Lorikeet (he has his wing up)

That tiny speck about a third down in the middle is a butterfly!

That tiny speck about a third down in the middle is a butterfly!

Too dark to see what kind of lorikeets these are

Too dark to see what kind of lorikeets these are

Rainbow Lorikeets

Rainbow Lorikeets

Lorikeet in silhouette

Lorikeet in silhouette

Rainbow Lorikeet eating

Rainbow Lorikeet eating

Rainbow Lorikeets mating

Rainbow Lorikeets mating

Rainbow Lorikeets mating

Rainbow Lorikeets mating

Rainbow Lorikeets mating

Rainbow Lorikeets mating

An ethereal looking Triton SC Cockatoo

An ethereal looking Triton SC Cockatoo

Male Eclectus in flight

Male Eclectus in flight

Female Eclectus perching pretty, not sure about the bird flying overhead

Female Eclectus perching pretty, not sure about the bird flying overhead

Not sure what these birds are

Not sure what these birds are

OTHER ISLANDS IN RAJA AMPAT

As I  mentioned in my other post, if you are with a tour group, you will probably go to Batanta and Salawati with a chartered boat.  The birdlist for Batanta is pretty much the same as Waigeo (see above).  The birdlist for Salawati has more in common with that of the Sorong Lowlands which I will cover in a separate post.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Red Bird Of Paradise – Dancing In The Trees

Red Bird of Paradise (Paradisaea rubra), Waigeo

Red Bird of Paradise (Paradisaea rubra), Waigeo

An Indonesian endemic, the Red Bird-of-paradise (Paradisaea rubra, also Cendrawasih Merah) is distributed to lowland rainforests of Waigeo and Batanta islands of Raja Ampat, West Papua. This species shares its home with another bird-of-paradise, the Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise.   They are easier to see because they dance in the trees in the same place and don’t seem to mind spectators sitting in the hide below.

Red Bird of Paradise (Paradisaea rubra), Waigeo- dancing in the trees

Red Bird of Paradise (Paradisaea rubra), Waigeo- dancing in the trees

Yeah, you better be watching me!

Yeah, you better be watching me!

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OK where did the lady BOPs go?

Large, up to 33 cm long, brown and yellow with a dark brown iris, grey legs and yellow bill. The male has an emerald green face, a pair of elongated black corkscrew-shaped tail wires, dark green feather pompoms above each eye and a train of glossy crimson red plumes with whitish tips at either side of the breast. The male measures up to 72 cm long, including the ornamental red plumes that require at least six years to fully attain. The female is similar but smaller in size, with a dark brown face and has no ornamental red plumes. The diet consists mainly of fruits, berries and arthropods.

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Red Bird of Paradise (Paradisaea rubra), Waigeo – dancing in the trees

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Red Bird of Paradise (Paradisaea rubra), Waigeo – fancy moves

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Red Bird of Paradise (Paradisaea rubra), Waigeo – trying to impress the ladies

For a stunning professional shot by a Nat Geo photographer, read the fascinating story of the lengths they go through to get these shots!  There’s also a video showing a Nat Geo crew filming other Birds of Paradise which shows more of their technique.  Climbing trees is probably out of scope for the typical eco-tourist!

This is my “real life” pitiful attempt to get them dancing on video.

 And this one appears to have been filmed on Batanta (Waigeo doesn’t have that sign overhead) by someone staying at a dive resort on Kri Island.  The resorts are quite nice, but not cheap!  Bonus footage of a Paradise Kingfisher!

Tiny And Spectacular – Wilson’s Bird Of Paradise

Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise, Cicinnurus respublica

This gorgeous little Bird of Paradise is only found on 2 islands, Waigeo and Batanta in Raja Ampat where they share the habitat of the Red Bird of Paradise.  Of these, Waigeo is the easiest place for independant travelers to reach on public transport but most organized birding tours will go to Batanta.  The Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise, Cicinnurus respublica, is a small, up to 21 cm long, passerine bird of the Paradisaeidae family. The male is a red and black bird-of-paradise, with a yellow mantle on its neck, light green mouth, rich blue feet and two curved violet tail feathers. The head is naked blue, with black double cross pattern on it. The female is a brownish bird with bare blue crown.  In the field, the blue bare skin on the crown of the bird’s head is so vivid that it is clearly visible by night; the deep scarlet back and velvet green breast are lush, the curlicue tail gleaming bright silver.

They are not easy to photograph, these little guys are fast!   We were all in the hide, trying to be inconspicuous and get photos as the bird darted in and out of his bower.  I couldn’t get a clear shot, he was just too tiny to focus on and he was too fast.  This was the best I could do.  You can barely see his head, that blue dot about 1/3 down in the center of the photo.  He wasn’t fooled by the hide in the least.  At one point, he zoomed right over my head, less than a foot away and off into the bush as if to say, “LOL, I know you’re there!”

Wilson's Bird-of-paradise, Cicinnurus respublica

Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise, Cicinnurus respublica

Nothing like seeing and hearing the bird in action.  Not my video, this is a professional one from YouTube.  Why can’t I ever get footage this clear?

David Attenborough finds the rare exotic Wilson’s bird of paradise

My guide, Benny tried that same thing with the leaves but we couldn’t lure him into coming down.  To be fair, I simply wasn’t able to hold as still as I should have as I was sitting on a very uncomfortable rock!  This was the best I could do, couldn’t quite focus on the bird.  At least you can hear him at the end!

And finally, here he is – up close and personal with Lab of Ornithology

Raja Ampat – A Treasure For Birders As Well As Divers

Out of all the places in West Papua I have been blogging about, Raja Ampat is the one most likely to be familiar to most tourists.  It is one of the world’s greatest scuba diving destinations and there are many blogs and websites to help you organize a dive trip on either a live-aboard boat or based in a resort.  Some of the resorts also offer bird watching so I will mention that where appropriate.

Location of Sorong and Raja Ampat

GETTING THERE

As of this writing, you can fly into the airport of Sorong  (SOQ) with Sriwijaya (Jakarta-Soekarno-Hatta, Manokwari, Surabaya, Makassar); Express Air (Jakarta-Soekarno-Hatta, Jayapura, Manokwari, Surabaya, Makassar, Yogyakarta); Merpati (Jayapura, Manokwari);  and Wings Abadi/Lion Air (Ambon).  None of these airlines currently offer online booking and payment with a non-Indonesian credit card except possibly Merpati.  In my article about Sriwijaya, I describe how to use an Indonesian travel agent to book the tickets.  The good news is that Garuda will be starting service to Manokwari and Sorong in July 2013 so in the future you will be able to book these flights online.  Garuda is due to join SkyTeam later this year so you will be able to use miles to redeem tickets all the way from your home airport to Sorong!

Arriving in Sorong

Arriving in Sorong

RAJA AMPAT DIVING TAGS AND CONSERVATION FEES

If you visit any of the scuba diving sites, you will see this mentioned.  I didn’t know about it before we left as I had been visiting mostly birding sites and only heard about it from another tourist on the ferry to Waigeo.     They were planning on diving and also hiring a boat to go to some more remote islands.   We weren’t planning on even snorkeling so didn’t look into this before we left.   No one asked for “tags” on the ferry so I tend to think that if you will only be on the main island of Waigeo and not diving you don’t need the tags.  There is a bit of a grey area if you are hiring a charter boat to go to Batanta and Salawati.  Some of the diving websites that I looked at just now mention that the tags are inspected on the boats.  If you think you need to buy the tags, when you arrive in Sorong, walk across the street to the JE Meridien Hotel and buy them there.

Raja Ampat Lodges Site

Stay Raja Ampat Site

FERRY TO WAIGEO

The main reason I chose Waigeo as our birding destination is because you can get there on a public ferry rather than having to charter a boat.  Most birding tour groups charter a boat and go to Batanta and Salawati.   The birdlife is pretty much the same on Waigeo and Batanta, Salawati does have some different species.

It will cost around 50,000 rupiah to get to the ferry terminal but you will have to bargain for this price and probably go outside the airport to the main street and head to the left.  Taxi drivers don’t speak English so have someone write “ferry to Waisai” on a piece of paper.  Once there, you buy your tickets and any supplies you want to bring to the island-water, cold drinks, snacks.  You don’t have to buy too much as Waigeo is the main population centre of Raja Ampat and there are shops and small restaurants on the island.  There will also be people coming around on the ferry to sell snacks.

A ferry leaves Sorong daily to Waisai around 2pm but it’s best to be on board around 1pm.  Seats are assigned and cost 120,000 rupiah ($12).  The ferry back to Sorong from Waisai also leaves at 2pm and costs the same.  It’s a pleasant 2.5-3 hour trip.

Ticket booth for ferry to Waigeo

Ticket booth for ferry to Waigeo

Food stalls, buy snacks and drinks

Food stalls, buy snacks and drinks

Walk down the pier, ferry is on the left.

Walk down the pier, ferry is on the left.

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Vendors selling snacks to passengers

Vendors selling snacks to passengers

Arrival at Waisai

Arrival at Waisai

View of ferry at Waisai dock

View of ferry at Waisai dock

Food stalls with "Ojek" taxis waiting in front

Food stalls with “Ojek” taxis waiting in front

 

GETTING TO OTHER ISLANDS SUCH AS BATANTA AND SALAWATI

There are no public ferries to these islands so you will need to charter a boat complete with captain, first mate and bring enough food supplies to feed them, yourselves and a couple of guides once you get there.  You will need to get to Dom Island and ask around for a charter boat.  Papua Bird Club may be able to help with this.  Expect to pay around $100-150 per day.  You will need to hire the boat for the duration of your stay but it will be available to use for side trips to Salawati or snorkeling excursions.

Coming next:  Waigeo, top birds and the world’s cheapest overwater bungalows!